Travel

The Lure of Chiang Mai

Thailand’s second city is a great choice to avoid the teeming herd of tourists, and yet still quenches the thirst for culture, cuisine and shopping…

Thailand’s second city is a great choice to avoid the teeming herd of tourists, and yet still quenches the thirst for culture, cuisine and shopping.

From the air, Chiang Mai is a vast valley surrounded by hills and mountains. Upon closer look, the Ping River appears, gracefully snaking up and down the endless landscape. Much like what the Nile does in Egypt, the Ping River feeds the farmland, and is the lifeline of the medieval Lanna kingdom, the northern domain of which Chiang Mai was the capital.

Arriving in November, a week before the Loi Krathong festival, one of the two major events in the Thai calendar, we found the city in a festive mood. Loi Krathong is traditionally held during the full moon of November, and is celebrated to honor the Goddess of Water at sunset with thousands of floating banana leaves decorated with candles and flowers in the Ping River, and hundreds of paper lanterns launched in the air.

The airport was relatively uncomplicated, we were in and out in ten minutes, and shortly thereafter, driving across the river to an elaborately carved wooden gate and entering the enclave of a magnificent ancient kingdom. Or so it seemed. There is no better way to appreciate the façade of the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi than in the dramatic hues of dusk. The first sight of multiple ornamented roof tiers can easily take your breath away, while the impressive dark wood and the warm welcoming staff in the reception area was a promising start to our four-day stay.

Designed by the local architect Rachen Intawong, the sprawling resort took seven years to build and was created to fulfill the heritage passion of a Thai tycoon. Set in sixty acres of rural farmland, the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi is a small village of its own, and our quarters for the duration of our stay was a villa overlooking the rice paddies and carabaos. Staying true to traditional Lanna architectural style, the teakwood two-story villas provided all the modern amenities mixed with artwork, artifacts and luxurious silks and textiles weaved in the neighboring hilltop tribes. In all, the complex houses 64 villas and 54 colonial suites overlooking a large pool, and an expansive array of dining choices – French at Farang Ses, Chinese at Fujian, buffet breakfast and lunch at Akaligo, an English teahouse at the shopping village called The Oriental Shop, as well as an impressive room service menu that can be served in the room or at any of the public places. For the best taste of Northern cuisine, locals and visitors go to the Le Grand Lanna where the chef uses only the freshest ingredients for a meal fit for royalty.

But the heart of the resort is the luxurious Dheva Spa, a palace on its own with 18 treatment rooms and five residences with a thick menu for pampering.

For retail therapy, Chiang Mai is a haven. The night market on Saturday is a good precursor to the more extensive one the following day. Hard- core bargain hunters won’t let both chances slip by. The Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi thoughtfully provides a shuttle for their guests to the city center, a short 15-minute drive away. And if the schedule doesn’t fit, cabs are available at very reasonable rates.

The weekend night market comes alive at dusk, when wheeled carts are set up to line the streets. On Saturday, it stretches a good kilometer at Wu Lai Road, where vendors compete with existing shops in this busy commercial road known for its silverware.

The Sunday market is much bigger and located close by, at the center of the old walled city, starting at the Tha Phae Gate. Shoppers are bombarded with a huge selection of the usual knockoff T-shirts, athletic shoes, clothes, pirated CDs and DVDs; and cheap woodwork. If you haggle, you’re likely to find prices cheaper than those in Bangkok. Food stalls and fruit vendors selling kluk (a local delicacy of fresh strawberries tossed with salt and sugar) pepper the whole scene. The Sunday market is also more interesting as it showcases the art and craftsmanship of the northern tribal villages. Many of the stall vendors make and sell their own products mostly cotton and handwoven fabrics, as well as pottery, wood- carvings and metal works. To add to the festive mood, strings of colored lights and lanterns are hung all over, while musicians and puppeteers perform in the middle of the road.

For culture, Chiang Mai’s temples are much older than the ones in Bangkok, some as old as the city itself, which celebrated its 700 years in 1996. We visited the mountaintop Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, an important pilgrimage temple with a full monastery. The 800-year-old temple is famous for its gold domed rooftops overlooking the city, and a short hop to various hill tribe villages.

For first time visitors, Chiang Mai is a place to escape to, where the sights and sounds are to be appreciated and to partake as needed, especially if you choose a luxe resort. There is no sense of urgency visitors usually get from a Thai vacation in Bangkok or Phuket. Chiang Mai is best taken with a long massage in the afternoon and night shopping. Just as the doctor ordered.

by Eva Gullas

Travel

Autumn in Istanbul: Fellow Travellers Share Turkish Delights

by Jing Ramos

Istanbul is a transcontinental city positioned between Europe and Asia, known for its rich history and upbeat modern identity. The city features a unique blend of Byzantine and Ottoman architecture and has a bustling metropolitan life straddled along the Bosphorus Strait. Like Rome, it’s an old city built on seven hills. In fact, Istanbul’s gradient characteristic originates from the Roman Empire. The cobblestone streets of Istanbul were crafted by Albanian craftsmen commissioned by Sultan Abdulmecit in the 19th century, giving the city an old-world charm.

The lobby of the Pera Palace Hotel exudes old world charm.

Stephen Aznar, who organized this brief interlude in Istanbul, couldn’t have chosen a more interesting address—after all, location is paramount. We were right in the heart of Beyoglu, a historic and vibrant neighbourhood on the European side of Istanbul. Cultural landmarks such as the Galata Tower, historical buildings, art galleries, numerous churches, and an engaging atmosphere of fascinating restaurants and cafés surrounded us. Not far from our apartment stood the iconic Pera Palace Hotel, built in 1895 for passengers of the Orient Express. Designed by French-Ottoman architect Alexander Vallaury, the hotel’s opulent architecture is a hybrid of neo-classical, art nouveau, and oriental styles. Famous names have graced the hotel’s registry, including Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, founder of the Republic of Turkey, and writer Agatha Christie, who reportedly drew inspiration from the hotel for her novel Murder on the Orient Express. Other notable visitors included Ernest Hemingway, Alfred Hitchcock, and Queen Elizabeth II.

Stephen Aznar by the Galata Tower in Beyoglu.

The interiors of the patisserie were given a facelift by renowned interior designer Anouska Hempel.

The china served in the cafe were naturally pink, a favorite color of the Atataturks.

Stepping into the patisserie of the Pera Palace Hotel is a journey into the Belle Époque—a dreamlike era when the art nouveau period flourished. This French-style bakery features a predominantly pink ambiance with cranberry tones, moiré silks, and velvet cushions. Interior designer Anouska Hempel refreshed the café’s interiors in 2013, enhancing its original design, and the result is “the glamour of a bygone era.” Dessert history spanning Istanbul to Anatolia includes a varied range of baklavas, rice pudding, and Turkish delights from the Ottoman Palace, as well as patisserie products, biscuits, tarts, and cakes that made their way to Pera in the mid–19th century. That particular afternoon, our guilty pleasure consisted of Turkish tea with a traditional caramel éclair and a lotus tart served on pink china—a favourite color of the Atatürks.

Tracey Emin’s Bazen/Sometimes, inkjet mounted on foam board 2009

The Elgiz Museum of Contemporary Art, located in Istanbul’s business district within the Beybi Giz Plaza building, is Turkey’s first contemporary art museum established to support the development of contemporary art. The museum is nonprofit, founded by Sevda and Can Elgiz, and houses the family’s private collection, showcases temporary exhibitions, and serves as a platform for young and emerging artists and curators.

Currently on exhibition is Season of Mirage, which explores the thin line between dream and reality through current works by Turkish artists and selections from the museum’s private collection. A journey through the layered world of art, the exhibition—named after a mirage—offers a visual feast shaped by artists’ observations of the modern world. The interplay between clarity and uncertainty provides viewers with an opportunity to transcend time and explore both past and present. And although the city of Istanbul remains deeply rooted in its glorious past, the present reveals a collective artistic voice expressing concern over societal challenges, vividly depicted in the images of Season of Mirage.

This writer, Jing Ramos soaking up the atmosphere at the Patisserie .

Lifestyle

Find Your Summer Spirit in Shangri-La Mactan, Cebu

Breathe in the tropical atmosphere, as you find summer joys through sight, sound and taste at Shangri-La Mactan, Cebu. Poolside fun during the day, spent serenely and luxuriantly—a refreshment in hand. While the evenings are for outdoor family movie nights, with the ocean waves rippling in the background.

Summer is all of that, and more! Plan an extraordinary weekend with an array of exciting activities that await your arrival. Discover your #ShangriLaSummerSpirit from 15 July to 30 August.

Tiki Bar at Buko Bar

Epicurean Delights by the Pool

Keep yourself fueled up as you splish and splash with the whole crew. Take a quick break from all that summer jazz with Mediterranean and Polynesian-inspired bites exquisitely crafted for your palate. From rice balls and pastas, ice creams to sliders—indulge in tastes and aromas that transport you to a world of endless, golden summers.

Mediterranean Selections at Acqua

A Whimsical Touch

Make it a colourful summer for the kids! Let them explore their own version of paradise with whimsical floaties, sure to keep them happily afloat. Your little ones can now freely kick and play in the water with fun and fascinating, animal-shaped inflatables.

Pleasant Sundowner Tunes

Bid the sun adieu and embrace the sunset hues with live acoustics at the Main Pool from 4pm to 6:30pm.

Tiki Cocktails at Buko Bar

Champagne Bar at Acqua

A Toast to an Endless Summer!

Unwind and savour the tropical vibe as our expert mixologists craft refreshing Tiki cocktails and serve chilled bottles of exquisite champagne by the pool! With a backdrop of swaying palm trees and stunning ocean views, sip on delightful beverages and toast to unforgettable summer moments in paradise.

Family Outdoor Movie Night

Gather your nearest and dearest for an enchanting evening as we set up a large outdoor screen by the pool under the starry night sky. Cozy up as you enjoy a family-friendly movie that will delight both those who are young and young-at-heart at Treasure Island from 7pm to 9pm.

Surrounded by lush greens, let the experience bring you to a world of joy and laughter, creating cherished memories for you and the family. For more information on Shangri-La Mactan, Cebu, you may contact (032) 2310288. You may also follow them on Facebook and Instagram or visit https://www.shangri-la.com/cebu/mactanresort/ #FindYourSummerSpirit #FindYourShangriLa

inside

LONDON IN FULL BLOOM: An Exclusive Look at the recent Chelsea Flower Show

Dame Judy Dench (center in white) with gallery owner, Jerry Sibal, Edwin Josue, writer Eva Gullas and artist James Doran-Webb.

The Chelsea Flower Show in London, one of the most prestigious horticultural events in the world, returned in full glory in May 2023, captivating visitors with its stunning displays and landscape designs. Held annually on the grounds of the Royal Hospital Chelsea in London, this year’s show proved to be a true feast for the senses, showcasing an array of breathtaking gardens, vibrant floral arrangements, and innovative landscaping. The 3-day event showcased 36 outdoor gardens, including four balcony gardens for small spaces. Inside the giant pavilion, blooms compete with each other, exotic flowers, roses, and many more.

Princess Kate Middleton walking the booths at the Chelsea Flower Show.

Dame Judy Dench, who owns several of Webb’s pieces in her garden, with James Doran-Webb and Jerry Sibal discussing the works of James.

One of the flower arrangements competing at the show.

The 2023 Chelsea Flower Show embraced a Nature’s Harmony theme, with a strong focus on sustainability and mental health. The show’s organizers emphasized the importance of sustainable gardening practices and biodiversity conservation, inspiring attendees to create beautiful outdoor spaces while preserving and protecting the environment.

One of the floral gazebo displays recycled chairs and salvaged materials.

Shops at the Chelsea Flower Show are mostly from sustainable materials.

What’s Cebu got to do with the Chelsea Flower Show in London? One person. James Doran Webb (https://www.jamesdoranwebb.co.uk), an Englishman working with driftwood, has been displaying his artworks for several years. James collects cast-off driftwood and shapes them into beautiful animal shapes that find places in some of the most iconic gardens. Leaping horses, owls, reindeer, and the occasional dragon, James Webb’s creations are avidly collected by landscapers to add accent to gardens in all sizes, using cast-off wood, fitting perfectly with the sustainable element—something Mr. Webb has done quite well for the last decade.

The impressive dragon of James Doran-Webb

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The Philippine International Flower Festival will be held at the PICC in Manila from January 14 to 18, 2024. Watch out for more info from our website!