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The Ñ Game: A Culinary Genius

The whispers of Crimson Resort & Spa partnering with Chef Chele Gonzalez have been circulating the city since last year, when the resort invited select members of the media to dine at VASK in Manila. It was here that the culinary virtuoso had been winning over hearts and palates with modern interpretations of traditional Spanish cuisine.

Of course, this wasn’t the first time we’d sampled Chef Chele’s kitchen prowess. During Zee Lifestyle’s Bohol Break last year, host Be Grand Resort had flown him in to create a sampling menu that had our guests raving for weeks. The Pulpo a la Gallega, perfectly seasoned octopus on a bed of potatoes, was my personal favorite—the explosion of flavors that come with the seemingly simple dish is a testament to the chef’s talent.

Suffice to say, this particular restaurant was highly anticipated, and when the invitation to the launch finally arrived, people were willing to brave the Mactan’s rush hour topic for a seat at the table.

The name itself already suggests more than just a Spanish influence over the menu—Enye by Chele Gonzalez was named after the letter Ñ, the last letter from the Spanish alphabet that remains heavily used in the Philippines today. It signifies the close ties between the two cultures, further evidenced in how the plates coming from the kitchen present flavors that are somehow familiar and new at the same time.

Authenticity is definitely on the table—born in Santander, Spain, Chef Chele’s earliest cooking experiences were in his own family’s kitchen, where we imagine he’d learned traditional techniques that have been passed on throughout the generations. The pepper and onion vinaigrette-marinated seafood dish Salpicon de Marisco; the Rabo al Vinto Tito, a slow-cooked oxtail in red wine and potatoes; and of course, the paella—these are just some of the dishes that are grounded in classic Spanish culinary sensibilities.

It is in the modern interpretations, in my opinion, that Chef Chele’s mastery of the craft truly comes through. Of course, this doesn’t come as much of a surprise—his career includes time clocked in at Michelin-starred kitchens, the celebrated Arzak restaurant in San Sebastian (where he developed a keen appreciation and understanding for fine cuisine while developing new dishes in the Arzak Lab), and El Bulli, which had been the number one restaurant in the world at the time. The career had thankfully led to the Philippines, where Chef Chele worked in luxury hotels like Sofitel and Shangri-La, before he decided to open the various concepts of VASK.

The years of experience in some of the best restaurants in Europe (and probably the world, really) had given Chef Chele the confidence and skill set to introduce new subtleties and flavor profiles to already beloved dishes. Perhaps this is what makes dining at Enye feel like a culinary adventure—it’s a juxtaposition of tastes you expect and some that surprise your palate.

The curated menu of the restaurant’s opening bring together the best of both, properly introducing diners that are yet unfamiliar with Chef Chele’s style of cooking. Before dinner, a medley of appetizers and cocktails were passed around—the Mantegalo Seco, a Chardonnay-based drink with cachaca, lime, brown sugar and pineapple; and the Croqueta Jamon y Pollo, bechamel croquettes with ham and chicken, were instant stand-outs.

In true Spanish fashion, dinner was leisurely and stretched into the later hours of the night. The Carpaccio de Wagyu was served with parmesan ice cream and pine nuts for an interesting flavor, while the Lechon Cebu Tacos was a delicious homage to the province’s most famous dish. Of course, it’s not a tapas tasting without the Gambas al Ajillo, or a serving of paella, with Enye’s Arroz con Bogavante featuring stewed lobster tails for a truly rich flavor. The fourth course was something particularly interesting—the Solomillo a la Española is tenderloin with grilled Manchego cheese, rioja wine jus and mushroom mashed potatoes.

As amazing as the dishes were, it was the desserts that truly won me over. The dinner culminated with the Crema Catalana de Calabaza (Catalan pumpkin creme brulee), the Torrija (brioche dipped in milk with anise ice cream), and Texturas de Calamansi (calamansi cake, mousse, ice cream and biscuits)—all of which had us reaching for second servings, despite the fact that we were all relatively stuffed from the previous courses. If you only had the chance to sample a few dishes from Enye, I wholeheartedly suggest you get these three.

I’d arrived at Enye already a believer of Chef Chele’s culinary genius, and left it even more convinced. His understanding of traditional techniques is complemented by his boldness at turning these traditions on their head to create more modern plates, making him a chef to definitely watch. I’ll certainly be watching, and counting down the days I can make the trek across the channel to once again embark on the culinary adventure of Enye.

Arts & Culture

Kundiman After Dark: Traditional 19th Century Filipino Musical Genre Continues to Inspire

by Kingsley Medalla

The Kundiman is a traditional 19th-century Tagalog musical genre that served as a profound source of inspiration for many sophisticated, classically trained artists. The name is derived from the Tagalog phrase “kung hindi man,” literally translating to “if it were not so.” These musical pieces were often performed as poignant love songs characterized by smooth, flowing melodies containing emotional depth. Originating as a serenade in poetic Tagalog lyrics, it features a minor-to-major key progression expressing longing, devotion, patriotism, and a yearning for freedom.

Sine Pop, a boutique theater in a 1948 post-war heritage house located in Cubao, Quezon City, serves as a charming venue for cultural events and intimate performances with a small ensemble. Recently hosting Kundiman After Dark, a recital honoring the legacy of Nicanor Abelardo (1893–1934), a highly esteemed Filipino composer and pianist hailed as the “father of the sonata form in the Philippines” and a master of the art of the Kundiman. Carlson Chan, founder of Sine Pop, clarifies their unique model: the performances are open to the public and are, as such, complimentary, as its primary focus is to promote the performing artists per se.

The performances featured beloved Kundiman classics including Mutya ng Pasig (1926), Naku… Kenkoy (1930), and a personal favorite, Bituing Marikit (1926). These musical pieces were brought to life through the solo acts and live vocals of tenor Erwin Lumauag, Japanese violinist Shiho Takashima (who has since made the Philippines her permanent residence), and the renowned composer, pedagogue, and pianist Augusto Espino.

“Nasaan Ka Irog,” written in 1923, drew inspiration from a romantic tale shared by Nicanor Abelardo’s friend, who went overseas leaving behind his beloved in the Philippines. Years after, this man eventually became a doctor and, upon his return, discovered that the love of his life had been married to someone else. He also learned that the letters he had sent were never delivered to her, as they were kept by the doctor’s family, secretly away from her. A classic case of unrequited love. Kundiman serves as the heart and soul and the pinnacle of Filipino musical artistry.

Violinist Shiho Takashima and pianist Augusto Espino

Tenor Erwin Lumauag

Art patrons; Pacita Agoncillo Sode, Marilou Khan Magsaysay, Patricia Cepeda-Sison and this writer Kingsley Medalle

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Arts & Culture

Art Beat: Scenes From the Manila Art Fair 2026

photography by Doro Barandino

“Art is unpredictable and goes in different directions. I have no idea. I would rather live the present moment.” —Bencab, National artist of the Philippines.

Vinta by Protegeri, collaboration art piece by Leeroy New, Solenn Heuseff and Vito Selma

Q&A with interior decorator and jewellery designer Doro Barandino

Which of the participating art galleries had the most unified and exciting theme?
Leon Gallery had the most amazingly put-together collection. Though the gallery engaged various artists, the overall visual effect felt like one unified theme. Leon Gallery used a sack-like cloth (most likely raw linen) as the background for the booth, and it brought the collection together. It had an old-world feel in a chaotic setting.

Who were the artists that were the most visually engaging?
The works of Carlo Tanseco were definitely my favorite. The artist used an eye chart (Snellen chart) as the background for the image of Dr. Jose Rizal giving us the middle finger—such an “in your face” message. The concept of our national hero as a modern-day provocateur was a wake-up call to everyone. Very subversive and underground material. I was also attracted to the works of Japanese artist Tadashi Kogure; they’re very architectural.

Was the choice of venue and its layout helpful in engaging the whole art vibe?
What I noticed was that the masters like Juan Luna, Fernando Amorsolo, and Fernando Zóbel still attracted the most viewers at the art fair. People are naturally drawn to their masterful strokes and historical significance, or perhaps these artworks are not readily accessible for public viewing. Or maybe those booths that carried the masters’ works were strategically positioned right after the registrar.

The choice of venue at Center One was a good move—it created a total art vibe. Manila Art Fair remains the premier art fair in the country today, showcasing the finest modern and contemporary art while offering curated projects and immersive installations.

The Standard by Thai artist Pitchapa at the Triangular durational, performance art.

Bato Bato sa Langit by Filipino artist Carlo Tanseco

Stocking Proportions Menumpuk Proporsi by Indonesian artist Labadiou Piko

Untitled by Indonesian artist Yunizar

Filipiny, wool tapestry by national artist of the Philippines,Federico Aguilar Alcuaz.

Untitled by German artist Valentin Elias Renner

Interior decorator and jewellery designer Doro Barandino is also a regular contributor for zee.ph

 

 

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Arts & Culture

Visayas Art Fair Year 5: Infinite Perspectives, Unbound Creativity

by Jing Ramos

This year’s Visayas Art Fair marks its 5th anniversary, celebrating the theme “Infinite Perspectives: Unbound Creativity.” The fair continues its mission of bridging creativity, culture, and community in the country. This milestone edition strengthens its partnership with the National Commission for Culture and the Arts and expands collaborations with regional art organizations and collectives—reinforcing its role as a unifying platform for Philippine art.

VAF5 features the works of Gil Francis Maningo, honoring the mastery of his gold leaf technique on opulent portraits of the Visayan muse Carmela, reflecting spiritual awareness.

Gil Francis Maningo is celebrated for his gold leaf technique.

Gil Francis Maningo’s recurring theme of his Visayan muse “Carmela”.

Another featured artist is Danny Rayos del Sol, whose religious iconography of Marian-inspired portraits offers a profound meditation on the sacred and the sublime. This collaboration between two visual artists sparks a dialogue on the Visayan spirit of creativity and resilience. Titled “Pasinaya,” this dual showcase explores gold leaf as a medium of light and transcendence.

Artist Danny Reyes del Sol

Danny Reyes del Sol’s religious iconography.

Now in its fifth year, the Visayas Art Fair has influenced a community of artists, gallerists, brokers, collectors, museum curators, and art critics—constructing a narrative that shapes how we approach and understand the artist and his work. This combination of factors, destined for popular consumption, illustrates the ways in which art and current culture have found common ground in a milieu enriched by the promise of increased revenue and the growing value of artworks.

Laurie Boquiren, Chairman of the Visayas Art Fair, elaborates on the theme, expressing a vision that celebrates the boundless imagination of unique artistic voices:

“Infinite Perspectives speaks of the countless ways artists see, interpret, and transform the world around them—reminding us that creativity knows no single point of view. Unbound Creativity embodies freedom from convention and controlled expression, allowing every artist to explore and experiment without borders.”

Laurie Boquiren, Chairman of the Visayas Art Fair has tirelessly championed the creative arts for the past five years.

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