Before Ampersand opened in Banilad Town Center last year, it was already garnering many curious queries. Its site had been covered with a sign simply bearing an ampersand, with a notice announcing its farm-to-table concept.

The façade of Ampersand (Photography by John Ong/Originally published in Zee Lifestyle, May 2015)

When its doors were finally flung open, everyone was raring to check it out, easily validated by the always-full dining room. The name itself was enough to make me a fan—it’s one of my favorite words, loving how it just rolls off your tongue. “We went with Ampersand because we’re bringing together three concepts—the deli, the restaurant and the bar,” explains owner Chandra Mercado, with partner Chef Tom Hines. Together, they also own Lulu and Hooch in Makati.

These three concepts effortlessly merge in an elegant space that mingles rustic country charm with homages to old world speakeasies. Mismatched dining room chairs—tufted classic shapes, large leather seats—are arranged around wooden tables with weathered metal legs, while spherical chandeliers that look like they belonged in an old English dining hall hang from the ceiling.

The entire place has a rustic country charm (Photography by John Ong/Originally published in Zee Lifestyle, May 2015)

The backlit shelves and refrigerated display boxes on one end comprise the deli side, showcasing a selection of cheeses, cold cuts, desserts and other condiments. Behind the counter, the brick wall serves as a backdrop to a chalkboard displaying what’s available—which include childhood staples like pan de coco and Spanish bread, that fondly bring back memories. “It’s sort of a gourmet version of old favorites,” says Chandra, adding that all the breads, cakes and pastries are made in Ampersand’s own kitchen.

Running the length of the restaurant is the show kitchen, where the team led by Chef Fortune Fulgar prepares an array of dishes for the most discerning palates—made all the more tempting with the occasional whiff of sautéing vegetables and simmering sauces. The ingredients used are locally sourced, save for some items like the Chilean sea bass, of course. A hanging herb garden is in one corner of the kitchen for easy picking.

Ampersand’s red wine-braised ox tongue. (Photography by John Ong/Originally published in Zee Lifestyle, May 2015)

“Everything is my favorite,” Chef Fortune laughs when asked if he had a particular favorite dish. He did recommend some of the new additions to their menu though. The black seafood cake with golden mixed seafood in cuttlefish ink velouté gives a spectrum of flavors, the panko crust giving way to the soft meat inside, while the seafood bouillabaisse’s creamy tomato crustacean sauce perfectly complements the chunks of fish, squid and shellfish. For those looking for something heartier, the red wine-braised ox tongue is perfectly cooked—tender, full-flavored and accompanied with a rich creamy sauce that’s soaked up by the olive oil mashed potatoes.

It’s hard to imagine you’d still have space for dessert after that, but I assure you, their selection deserves some room. The citron-green tea cheesecake is light and refreshing, the green tea-infused and lemon-glazed homemade yogurt giving the sweetness the perfect touch of tang. A true star, though, is the chocolate ganache cake, layers of decadent chocolate that’s so delectably good.

Chocolate ganache cake. (Photography by John Ong/Originally published in Zee Lifestyle, May 2015)

At the other end of the room sits the bar, where subdued warm lighting casts an inviting glow. Incandescent bulbs hang in varying lengths from industrial-grade pulleys give it that utilitarian chic look. The open shelving that line the brick wall displays an impressive collection of liquors. “We want Cebuanos to try more cocktails, to show them much more than the mixed drinks that are usually offered,” Chandra says. Ampersand pays just as much attention to the cocktails’ flavors as they do with the food, with a list of signature drinks that explore a more unique side of inebriation. The Salcedo Ave. is a drink usually served at Lulu and Hooch, but has also gained popularity for its cool combination of Grand Marnier, Grey Goose, lemongrass syrup, caramelized lemons, pineapple juice, cilantro and ginger ale. Representing Cebu, the K8 is also being served in Manila, its calamansi flavors giving the Bacardo 8 Años Rum a nice kick. A wide selection of craft beers is regularly shipped in from Manila, with more variations to be offered soon.

It’s easy to understand why those who have visited Ampersand are now singing its praises—and it’s clear I’m soon going to be one of them. More than the charming décor and excellent selection of food and drinks, it’s about how they are pushing the local dining standard to another level by adding bold new flavors to the familiar, and doing it with the best ingredients and a great amount of style.

AMPERSAND
Banilad Town Center
6332. 416 1233 | 63. 915 774 8308 | 921 410 7763
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photography John Ong