It’s no surprise, then, that when Radisson Blu Cebu decided to open a Japanese restaurant in one corner of the lobby, finding a chef was the most important item on the agenda. “We had ‘auditions’ for the chef,” marketing communications manager Lara Agua tells me as we settled into our seats at the restaurant’s only long table. “Chef Jeff,” she continues, referring to Chef Jeff Yalung, who ended up at the helm of SUSHISAKE, “flew in from the Middle East and cooked for the management. When they tried his sushi, they knew that he was it.”
Hailing from Nueva Vizcaya, the chef is soft-spoken, but his passion and mastery of the craft is evident as I ask him about his creations. “It’s the sauces and the marinade,” Chef Jeff answers when I ask him about what sets his sushi apart from the many other variations in the city. “They’re all my own recipe. I really think about what goes well with the fish, so that all the flavors come out.”
With ten years of experience in international hotel brands in Ras al Khaimah, Abu Dhabi and Dubai, he had started out as a sous chef who had worked closely with the sushi chef in the kitchen. When the itamae left, Chef Jeff asked to take over the position. Since then, he continues to take inspiration from the cities he’s lived in and the dishes he’s tried, bringing them together to create his own unique take on the Japanese favorite.
The glowing introduction had gotten me especially curious about the sushi. Chef Jeff brings out a selection of makimono rolls to the table, some of which had become fast crowd favorites and the others off-menu specials. “The menu is actually very limited, so when you’re here, ask me for the specials,” Chef Jeff reveals.
“Depending on what we have, we can create something different for you.”
A specialty that’s on the menu, though, is the Dynamite Roll—the roll features tuna, salmon, and white fish fried with tempura batter, all topped with creamy crab and finished off with a flame torch, which presents an interesting combination of flavors and textures that make every bite seem better than the last. Other specialties include the Surf & Turf, an ebi tempura roll wrapped in beef tenderloin and topped with a savory sauce and tempura flakes, and the Special California Roll, what seems like an overflowing version of the staple maki.
The sushi and sashimi presentation of the Chef’s Special can only be described as a work of art—served in a bowl, the sashimi slices are tucked into a circular ice sculpture, each hand-shaped and kept in the freezer overnight, while the sushi sits on a bamboo mat over the crushed ice.
Of course, the other half of the name is Sake, and the restaurants serves up a selection of sakes that are meant to be enjoyed with your food. A waitress came with two varieties for us to try out, but it was the Gekkeikan Sparkling Sake that stood out for its fizzy, slightly sweet taste that complemented the stronger flavors of the fish.
As soon as we finished off the last roll, a trio of desserts arrived—the Sesame Seed Panna Cotta and Coconut Ice Cream, the Mochi Ice Cream, and the Yuzu Tart with Sake Meringue and Green Tea Ice Cream. The combination of tart, sweet and tropical flavors made the selection as much of a palate cleanser as it was to wrap up the meal. “The desserts are prepared at Feria, but only served here,” Lara explains.
With sophisticated modern interiors, the 21-seater SUSHISAKE is the latest addition to Radisson Blu’s dining selection. “We had to think about the cuisine that we wanted to serve, something that would appeal to locals and the tourists coming in,” Lara continues. In the end, the influx of Japanese visitors spurred them to create a dedicated Japanese restaurant. “There was always the Japanese section of Feria, but this gives us the chance to offer a more authentic, more premium selection. Plus, Cebuanos really love sushi,” she adds.
There’s certainly more to love about sushi here. Chef Jeff was right—his sauces and marinades really do make all the difference at SUSHISAKE. By adding different degrees of flavor to the fish and other ingredients, he ensures that everything coming from the restaurant’s open kitchen is a celebration on the palate and, if I may, a work of art.
Radisson Blu Cebu,
Serging Osmeña Blvd. corner Juan Luna Ave., Cebu City
(032) 402 9900
]]>
Thankfully, I live in a city that celebrates Japanese cuisine. There are even eateries that offer their own take on sushi rolls—Joed’s Lutong Hapon in Mabolo and APM Centrale is the perfect place to visit when you’re looking for hearty Japanese dishes on a budget.
Some of the makimono rolls from Radisson Blu’s Sushisake (photo by Nath Ybanez)
When I’m hankering for something a bit more authentic though, I head to Azabu at JY Square and Robinsons Galleria. They have an extensive offering of sashimi and sushi, and even offer up some toro for those looking to really indulge (the delectable Japanese tuna is priced upwards of P1,500). The Spider Roll, with its crab claw and fish roe, is a go-to, paired with a serving of soba.
Another spot that just recently opened is Sushisake at the Radisson Blu Cebu, which features some of the most delicious rolls I’ve tried in the city. Chef Jeff Yalung creates incredible flavor with his sauces—you hardly even need the Kikkoman and wasabi for his creations.
Ooma’s Soft Shell Crab Taco-Maki (photo from Ooma’s Facebook page)
Although sushi should be relatively simple, the way some chefs bring these fresh ingredients together can create the most interesting flavor profiles. A recent visit to Manila introduced me to Ooma, where I made the best decision of myself and ordered the Soft Shell Taco-Maki. The “taco” is made from temaki, and packed with soft-shell crab, ebiko and aligue mayo. The flavor is incredible, and I’m planning a trip to the capital soon just so I can have another go.
]]>
Azabu’s Cherry Blossom
Dining here is definitely an experience—upon arrival, diners are served with green tea, which can be taken iced or hot, and the amuse-bouche (hors d’oeuvres) that the chef decides the make that day. The same goes at the end of the meal—the chef serves a selection of deserts that diners can enjoy inclusive with the meal.
What sets Azabu apart from the rest of the Japanese restaurants in the market is their dedication to using only the highest quality ingredients for their dishes. Kobe beef and seafood like octopus and toro—Japanese tuna sashimi that melts in your mouth—are imported straight from Japan, flown in chilled not frozen and stored in the kitchen for no more than three days, if supplies even last that long. Not to say the local tuna they serve isn’t good either—the Cherry Blossom has crabstick and cream cheese in rice and wrapped in tuna, and every bite is delicate and flavorful goodness.
The Cherry Blossom isn’t on the menu though—in fact, Azabu has special dishes that the servers will be happy to share with you, and can even cater to personalized requests. A must-try that is on the menu is the Ebi Tempura, jumbo prawns in a light coating so every bite is full of meat, to be dipped in Azabu’s dipping sauce that’s delicate so as not to overpower the tempura.
Azabu’s Ebi Tempura
- JY Square Prestigio
- Gorordo Avenue, Lahug, Cebu City
- (032) 239 6849
(Edited from the published article Traveling Plates in Zee Lifestyle March 2014)
]]>